Getting Out of Dodge A Country Made for Two Newlyweds lose themselves amongst Italian treasures Austin Woman Magazine March 2007 By Erin Prather Stafford
The words romance and Italy have long been grouped together. During college I was fortunate to visit Venice, although the trip was with six other girls. Not exactly the most romantic of circumstances, I had always wished to return with a special someone. Luckily my new husband wanted the same…he had traveled Italy solo during his 20s. It soon it became obvious where we would go for our honeymoon.
Italians refer to Italy as “lo Stivale” (the Boot) due its shape. We flew there the day after Christmas. Friends had advised us to go in winter and miss the overcrowded summer season. Our journey started in Venice, moved to Florence, and ended in Rome.
“Venezia” (Venice)
Home to Carnival and the gondola, Venice is considered one of Europe’s most romantic cities. It was founded by Roman fisherman and became an infamous trading post between the East and West. Today the city’s main industry is tourism; international dialects are spoken everywhere.
Venice is made up of 118 islands. Bridges now connect most of them, although boats are still used to travel from one to another. To reach our hotel, the Villa Igea, we boarded a water bus from the airport to St. Mark’s Square. The hotel was a short walk from the piazza and proved to be an ideal location for traversing the city.
Our first official Italian dinner was the restaurant Vino Vino. Visitors can try using a map in Venice…if they accept they’ll still get lost. My husband the Eagle Scout quickly learned to rely on yellow signs posted throughout the city that pointed to major landmarks and bridges. We soon found the restaurant and its delicious pasta dishes.
The next morning we set out for the Rialto Bridge. Spanning the Grand Canal, it’s the city’s oldest and most famous bridge. Located at its base is Rivoaltus Legatoria, a store specializing in leather-bound journals and photo books. Run by Giorgio and Wanda Scarpa (a wonderfully gregarious couple) Rivoaltus is perfect for souvenirs. We selected a gorgeous photo book that I would later fill it with snaps of the honeymoon. I gave it to my husband for Valentine’s Day.
After visiting with the Scarpas, we headed to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. The museum was once Ms. Guggenheim’s home and possesses her personal collection of 20th century art. Visitors can venture onto its lovely terrace for pictures of the Grand Canal and walk through a sculpture garden where Ms. Guggenheim is buried with her beloved Shih Tzuzs.
In addition to its numerous restaurants, Venice has many small grocery stores. Tourists can buy wine, cheese, meats, and bread, which we did for our second dinner. Having eaten a large Italian lunch, we opted to have dinner in the room on our second night. It turned out to be one of our best evenings.
Our last day was spent exploring Venetian walkways. I did convince my husband to try the city’s traditional dish of sardines in vinegar and onions. Afterwards he promptly bought a pack of gum, especially since he insisted we go on a gondola ride.
Although some travelers might roll their eyes and mutter “tourist trap” traveling by gondola is the only you’ll see Venice as past generations did. Rides are pricey, be sure to request a quote from your gondolier before boarding. Ours said he learned the trade from his father who had learned it from his father. The most romantic time to ride is right before sunset.
We got up early to see to see the Basilica Di San Marco before catching our train to Florence. It’s the crown jewel of St. Mark’s Square and best to see in the early morning before long lines form. We then took a water bus to the Venice train station. Prior to leaving the states my husband had made travel arrangements to both Florence and Rome. We boarded our car and settled in for picturesque ride through the Italian countryside.
Firenze (Florence)
Considered the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Florence was long ruled by the Medici family. After checking into the lovely Hotel Il Guelfo Bianco (where our room had a painted fresco on its ceiling), we walked over to the Piazza Della Sigoria, the most touristy part of the city. Here we entered the Palazzo Vecchio, former home of the Medici family.
Religious frescos fill the structure and there are opportunities to take different tours. We went on the Secret Routes tour that showed hidden passageways and allowed entry to private chambers. We were in awe of the Salone dei Cinquecento, a gigantic room whose ceiling depicts the history of both Florence and the Medici family.
Near the Palazzo Vecchio is the Duomo of Florence. An impressive building, it took over a hundred years to construct. The structure’s exterior is decorated with bands of white, green, and red. Nearby is a bell tower known as Giotto’s Tower. One must brave 414 steps to reach top, which my husband and I elected to do. Soon we found ourselves admiring magnificent views of the city below.
The Florentine restaurant we dined at that night was a romantic spot called Cantina Barbagianni. Subtlety lit, it’s very modern with a delicious menu. The appetizer cheese plate caused me to absolutely swoon.
Our second day began with a visit to the Academia. There we found Michelangelo’s towering David. The rotunda where he sits was designed specifically for the statue. No trip to Florence is complete if one fails to see those expressive eyes. Other statues by Michelangelo are nearby, as are paintings by Botticelli.
After having pizza from a street vendor (tasty), we hiked over to the Piazzale Michelangelo. One of Florence’s most romantic spots, the Piazzale Michelangelo is a square where a David copy gazes over the city. It’s an uphill trek to reach the square, but the spectacular views are worth it. They were even more dazzling than the ones I witnessed on top of Giotto’s Tower.
We then made our way down to an open air market called Mercato Nuovo. Specifically my husband and I wanted to visit Tacca’s statue “Il Porcellino” (the little pig). The statue brings visitors from all over to rub its snout. Legend has it those doing so will return to Florence. It’s a popular belief; the snout’s enamel has been worn away.
Roma (Rome)
No other city is like it. After boarding a train in Florence we soon found ourselves in Italy’s massive capital. The sheer size of Rome and richness of its history guarantees no one can see everything during one visit.
Snagging a cab from the train station, we made our way to the Hotel Alimandi, located across the street from the Vatican Museum. The establishment is perfect for walking to St. Peter’s Square or for using the public transport to see other parts of the city. After checking in we met a family friend at St. Peter’s who took us to St. Paul outside the Walls. It is one of four Roman churches where only the Pope can say mass and beneath the alter St. Paul’s body is buried. Visitors can pinpoint its exact location by finding a tiny red light on the front of the altar.
We then made our way to the Pantheon, a structure that has greatly influenced both European and American architects. It was built as a Roman temple and later consecrated as a Catholic Church. The painter Raphael is buried there, as is the first king of Italy. Close by is St. Maria’s, Rome’s only Gothic-style church.
Our first Roman dinner was at an indoor market called Franchi. Somewhat like the Whole Food’s dining area, Franchi’s offered up a variety of delectable treats at exceptionally good prices. Particularly scrumptious was the lasagna my husband ordered.
The next day we rose early for the Pope’s weekly general audience. The service took place at the Paul VI Audience Hall inside Vatican City. Afterwards we entered the St. Peter’s church. The most prominent building in Vatican City, the church is home to Michelangelo’s Pieta. The statue has been protected by bullet-proof glass since 1972 when a man attacked Christ’s nose and Mary’s hand with an axe. Pope John Paul II is buried beneath St. Peter’s and it was particularly moving to pass his grave. He was the only Pope I’d known till his death in 2005.
The final days of our honeymoon were spent at the Vatican Museum and Coliseum. Containing one of the world’s greatest art collections, the museum is a must for anyone visiting Rome. Be sure to get there early…the entry line is long and it’s easy to spend an entire day lost amongst the museum’s beautiful treasures.
Our last meal took place at a lovely restaurant t known as “Il Colibri” (the little hummingbird). Not far from the Vatican, our candlelit table was a touching way to conclude the trip. As my husband and I celebrated with a bottle of wine, we knew Italy had been the perfect choice for our honeymoon. It was lovely to be proven right.
[SIDEBAR] Hip Tips for Italy
• Try a restaurant’s house wine (“vino della casa”) while dining in Italy. Often a merlot or chardonnay, the house wine will be reasonably priced and is often just as good as anything you might select from the menu. It’s an ideal solution for travelers on a budget.
• Rumor has it gelato originated in Florence. Be sure to look at an establishment’s bins if you’re ordering this tasty treat. If they are plastic the gelato was likely mass produced and shipped from elsewhere. If the bins are metal, it’s probably homemade.
• You will see many Davids while walking around Florence. We saw: 1) original at the Accademia 2) copy in the Piazza Della Signoria 3) copy at the Piazzale Michelangelo
• Because of long entry lines my husband and I were not able to the Uffizi museum in Florence. Inside is Botticelli’s renowned painting Birth of Venus. Bypass these long entry lines by reserving tickets in advance. Check with your hotel to see if they can do it for you.
• Leave important documents in your room if there is a safe. Pickpockets, especially in Rome, are always on the lookout for unsuspecting tourists.
• There is simply not enough space to list every church we entered while in Italy. Often they house incredible frescos and statues…some more beautiful than those found in museums. While most shops and museums close for the Italian afternoon siesta, churches are often open.
• St. Paul outside the Walls has one of the four Holy Doors. The other doors are located at St. Peter’s, St. John Lateran and St. Mary Major. The doors are open during a Holy Year in celebration of the Catholic jubilee. Traditionally, the Pope himself opens and closes the doors of St. Peter's personally, and designates a cardinal to open those at the other three basilicas.
• The Vatican Museum is closed on major religious holidays. Go online to www.vatican.va for museum hours and additional information about Vatican City. The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican museum…don’t miss seeing the masterpiece of Michelangelo’s painting.
[SIDEBAR] Sights not mentioned, but should be seen: Doge’s Palace (in Venice) The island of Burano (near Venice) Palazzo Pitti (museum in Florence) Chiesa Di Santa Croce (church in Florence where Michelangelo and Galileo are buried) Roman Forum (near the Coliseum in Rome) Palatine Hill (near Roman Forum)
